Raohe St: A Guide to One of Taipei's Oldest Night Markets

From the Songshan station, it may not be obvious that there is a night market tucked into a narrow street one block away. But the smells of frying meat and pungent spices draw crowds of people to the bright signs of clothing stores and food stalls. Smoke and steam mix with the rich aromas and body heat to create the feeling of an almost oppressive heat, but the food is so cheap and good-looking that it’s worth enduring.

Night markets are a staple of Taiwanese night life. Locals and tourists alike flock to them to enjoy a good meal or try new foods, as well as hang out with family and friends. They represent the diverse and rich history of Taiwanese culture and food, from the traditional stinky tofu to Japanese takoyaki.

Pork pepper pies

Right in the entrance is a stand selling pork “pepper pies”. The line is long, but you can watch workers mix the meat, roll out the dough, and cook small batches of buns. The bread melted in my mouth with the savory filling, and was big enough to easily be a meal in of itself. But I had to at least experience the entire market, so we kept pushing through the crowd.

The sound of sizzling meat can be heard from anywhere in the market. Chicken steaks, fried spare ribs, and fried mushrooms are being constantly made. Fresh fruit lying in ice and being blended up into juices make a colorful contrast to all the fried chicken and mushrooms. Fancier drinks like papaya milk and milk tea in a bag are also offered. Pearl milk tea, aiyu bing, grass jelly drinks, and dragonfruit juice all can be easily found.

Stinky tofu is probably one of Taiwan’s most distinctive night market food. Known for its strong smell, the tofu is fried, and can be sold with different toppings such as soy sauce, chili oil, and pickled vegetables. I personally don’t mind the smell, so I had no issue trying it. On the other hand, I disliked the slight fishy taste of the popular fried octopus balls, takoyaki. Garnished with mayo sauce and fish flakes, it’s packed with rich and heavy flavors, which made it worth eating.

There are many sweeter options available. I was so excited when I found the fruit jelly balls that I’d seen online, as well as the fruit-flavored jelly pops that only cost 10 NTD, or 33 US cents. However, I loved the mango shaved ice the best. Served in a heaping bowl with fresh mango and mango ice cream, it was sweet enough to classify as a Western dessert, but not overpoweringly filled with sugar.

Stepping out to the other side of the Raohe Night Market feels like I’ve traveled through a tiny city. The atmosphere, food, and drinks are something completely unique to Taiwan, and are integral to the nightlife that I’ve just begun to explore.