The first city and capital of the Lanna Thai Kingdom, Chiang Rai is the northernmost region of Thailand. Named after King Mangrai, it's not to be confused with Chiang Mai, which I will be discussing in a different post. Although the province mostly consists of rice paddies and small towns, there are three notable sights that I believe are important to Thai culture and history. There is much more to Chiang Rai that I'm sure I'm missing, but here are my favorite attractions from this trip.
1. Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)
Also known as the White Temple, Wat Rong Khun is a Buddhist temple that was designed and rebuilt from ruins by Chiang Rai native Chalermchai Kositpipat. Although the artist opened up the temple to the public in 1997, it's still under construction and won't be fully completed until much later in the future, possibly in 2070.
Made out of white plaster and decorated with imbedded glass, Wat Rong Khun is visually striking with its combination of contemporary art and traditional Thai architecture. The white color symbolizes purity, and the various sculptures and murals capture various Buddhist beliefs. Leading up to the ubosot, the main building, is a bridge surrounded by a small lake and outreaching hands that represent earthly desire. The two statues guarding the entrance of the bridge are Kinnaree, Buddhist mythological creatures that are meant to protect humans.
The bridge itself shows the way to happiness, which is to let go of materialistic desire, temptation and greed. On the other side is the Gate of Heaven, which is looked after by statues representing Death and Rahu. You can't take any pictures inside the actual ubosot, but the walls are covered in murals of the evil humans commit, and continue the surreal experience of intense beauty and terrifying spiritualism.
2. Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple)
Another site that was recently only ruins, it is said that tigers used to roam around where Wat Rong Suea Ten, which translates to "Temple of the Dancing Tiger", stood a century ago. Opened in 2016, this stunning sapphire and gold temple is another example of modernism blended with classic Thai elements. This is because it was designed by Putha Kabkaew, who was a student of the White Temple artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Like the White Temple, construction of the Blue Temple is far from finished, and you can see large sculptures in the process of being built out in the front. To me, the ornate incorporation of naga serpents and mythological creatures make this lesser known temple just as compelling as its more established siblings the White Temple and Black House.
Inside is a giant porcelain statue of Buddha. The murals show his life and path to enlightenment, along with beautiful patterns all along the ceiling and columns. Following the blue theme, there are vendors selling blue butterfly pea and coconut ice cream outside. The flower is completely edible and is even good for your skin.
3. Baan Dam (Black House)
Part museum, part art gallery, Baan ("house") Dam ("black") is a peaceful garden scattered with around forty traditional Northern Thai-style buildings and architecturally unique structures. Designed by Thawan Duchanee, they showcase his artwork from over his lifetime. Another national artist from Chiang Rai, Thawan Duchanee studied art in Bangkok and Amsterdam before returning to his hometown. Because his paintings and pieces use a lot of animal skins, skulls, and phallic statues to depict his personal interpretation of Buddhism, his art has been controversial despite his success. Some view it as offensive to Buddhism, while others see it as portrayals of human desire and suffering.
Thawan Duchanee passed away in 2014, but you can still visit this interesting site to witness his distinctive style. You can walk into some of the buildings, but others, like his bedroom and a few rooms where royalty have meditated, are closed off to the public.
While these three sites are different from each other in many ways, they all provide insight into the history of Chiang Rai and how Buddhism is interpreted today. Whether you are religious, interested in art, or just want to sightsee northern Thailand, there's something for everyone at the White Temple, Blue Temple, and Black House.